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Product no longer available - the Urban Gardener is going Organic

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• Is Your Root Zone Performing At Its Very Best?
• Looking for A Clean Answer To Your Root Problems?
• Works With All Nutrients, In All Systems And All Mediums!

For best results, use the online Nutrient Calculatorfor an individualized interactive feeding program to suit your needs.
To use ZONE, simply follow these easy guidelines!

LIGHT STRENGTH:
Use this schedule from the day you plant out to the day you harvest for worry free gardening! Recommended for start-up initial use and for continual use when water temperature is below 21C / 70F.
Add ZONE at the rate of 5 ml / 1 teaspoon per 20 litres / 5 gallons of final reservoir volume, after you have added your primary nutrients and all additives.
Check and adjust final nutrient strength using a TDS (PPM or EC) meter. Check and adjust pH.

MEDIUM STRENGTH:
Use this mid range strength whenever your water temperature reaches or exceeds 23C / 74F. Your root zone can quickly get out of balance when your water temperature reaches or exceeds this mark. Using ZONE at this strength, before problems occur, will optimize your root zones condition until your water temperature falls back into the safe area below 21C / 70F.
Add ZONE at the rate of 9 ml / 2 teaspoons per 20 litres / 5 gallons of final reservoir volume, after you have added your primary nutrients and all additives.
Check and adjust final nutrient strength using a TDS (PPM or EC) meter. Check and adjust pH.

AGGRESSIVE STRENGTH:
Use this strength at first signs of problems in the root zone. ZONE at this strength is very effective at quickly re-establishing optimal root zone conditions. Once your plants have regained their vigour, return to using medium strength ZONE for the remainder of your growing and flowering cycles.
Add ZONE at the rate of 12 ml / 2 ½ teaspoons per 20 litres / 5 gallons of final reservoir volume, after you have added your primary nutrients and all additives.
Check and adjust final nutrient strength using a TDS (PPM or EC) meter. Check and adjust pH.

Why we DO NOT Recommend the use of Beneficial Mycorrhizae (Fungi) and Bacteria in Hydroponics!
Mycorrhizae are beneficial fungi that penetrate the roots of most plants in nature. This symbiotic relationship is beneficial in that the plant provides sugars to the fungi, and the fungi enhance nutrient uptake for the plant. There are two major groups of mycorrhizae: ectomycorrhyzae and endomychorrhizae. The ‘ectos’ do not actually penetrate the cells of the roots, but are found between the intercellular spaces. Ectos have been found to be able to utilize a range of organic compounds such as proteins, peptides and amino acids (1, 5, 7,). However, these fungi are restricted to coniferous tree species (gymnosperms) and Ericacious (heath/ bog) species where soil breakdown of amino acids is minimal (1, 2, 5). 

Endomycorrhizal fungi aid in water and nutrient uptake, especially phosphorus, but do not aid in mineralization of organic matter, and thus have not been found to take up organic nutrients (1-7). Unlike ectos, ‘endos’ invade root cortical cell walls and can form branched structures called arbuscules which are efficient sites of exchange between fungus and root cell. Endos are primarily associated with herbaceous plants (angiosperms) commonly grown in greenhouses and hydroponic systems (1-7).

In hydroponics, there would be little value to be obtained from mycorrhizal associations in this situation. Their value is to provide improved uptake of water and minerals from the soil / growing media. In a hydroponic setting, the plant has constant access to all the water and dissolved minerals it needs. The mycorrhizal fungi would do little to improve on a root constantly bathed in water and minerals, however may aid in nutrient uptake under plant stress and low root biomass (3, 8). Most hydroponically grown plants are of angiosperm origin, and since endomycorrhizae are not known to take up whole organic molecules in any situation, these fungi would not benefit in the uptake of a root based supplement product containing these substances. Many products make claims of enhanced growth and yield from beneficial microorganisms added to the nutrient solution along with organic fertilizers. This phenomenon can be attributed to the enzymatic secretions of these fungi into the solution to breakdown organic matter into its essential elements for uptake and transport to the roots (8, 9). Essentially, it is the same as adding extra fertilizer.

In soil mediums where organic fertilizers are used, the extra surface area provided by the mycorrhizal associations can act to enhance nutrient uptake, and to break down (via enzymatic secretions from the fungi) organic matter into its essential minerals useable by plants. Beneficial bacteria are useful in this situation again by breaking down organic matter and rendering it useful to plants in its simple mineral form. Organic fertilizers are slow acting and slow releasing, and these beneficial organisms are necessary in situations where no added mineral salts are present. However, there is little to be gained even in soil and soilless mediums when complete fertilizers with all essential nutrients are present. The use of  Beneficial Bacteria in hydroponic systems can clog lines, filters and pumps.

Hydrogen Peroxide
Commonly known as H₂O₂, is intended for cleaning equipment and treating well water only. Often, it is sold on the premises as “extra oxygen” for roots. H₂O₂ is a highly reactive molecule. It is an oxidizing agent that is unstable in solution and tends to rip away electrons from other sources such as living matter (including root cells, bacteria and your skin!!) and chelating agents as well as reacting with other organic matter. This is what makes it an effective “cleaning” agent. However, for this reason it is not recommended in root zones or nutrient solutions. Adding too much H₂O₂ can kill your plants by damaging the roots, and render ‘Hydroponic Nutrient Solutions’ less effective by breaking down chelating agents.

It is recommended that you follow label instructions on dilution rates and treat water beforehand with H₂O₂ and allow at least 24 - 36 hours for most of it to react and become water and oxygen. Then use this “sterilized” and oxygenated water for your nutrient solution. Remember to keep the nutrient temperatures between 60 - 70 F / 16 – 22 C to keep the oxygen dissolved in the water.